top plumber nearby Industrial District in Seattle, Washington

Plumbing can cost a lot of money, so being prepared and knowing how to take care of your plumbing in Industrial District can be very beneficial to you and your wallet. By knowing how to take care of your plumbing, you can save time and save yourself a lot of money, in the end.

Types Of Plumbing Services

If you have issues with the plumbing making a hammering sound when you turn it off, check your water pressure. Any time your water pressure is above 80 PSI, you will hear extra water noise. This can be easily solved by the installation of a pressure-reducing valve, which can be done by most homeowners.

If you have a clogged drain, don’t use cleaning chemicals to try to clear the clog. These harsh chemicals can corrode your metal pipes leading to leaks and broken pipes over time. Instead, stick to a plunger or make use of a plumbing snake to clear them.

Service Plumbing And Heating

Avoid using hard cleaners on your toilets, such as drop-in cleaner tabs in the tank. When these tabs are almost completely dissolved, what’s left of the tab gets washed into the bowl. This can then end up clogging the toilet’s port holes, preventing the toilet from flushing properly. It can take months for this debris to finish dissolving in those holes.

A sink hose that is installed incorrectly will lead to water flowing into the dishwasher. The hose leading from the kitchen sink to the dishwasher must lead uphill and then back downhill in order to prevent mixing of water from both devices.

The Best professional plumbing service nearby in Seattle 

Avoid pouring grease or oil down your kitchen sink drain. Grease and oil can build up in your pipes and cause a backup. Instead, wait for the grease or oil to cool and solidify and either throw it away or see if there’s a place to recycle it near your home.

To avoid freezing pipes in the winter, make sure to insulate any exposed pipes in you basement before winter comes. Pay extra attention to pipes near the outside walls. If you have had a problem with any particular pipe freezing in the past, apply some heat tape to insulate those pipes.

Bathroom Sink Plumbing Repair

If the hot water heater in your house is over ten years old, you should look at replacing it. Hot water heaters are very susceptible to corrosion on the bottom. This can lead to leaking and flooding whatever room it is in. Then not only will you have to replace it, but you’ll have to fix any damage caused by the leak.

Work with plumbers that offer flat rates. When a plumber in Industrial District is charging by the hour, they do not have an incentive to get the job done quickly. It is human nature to go just a little bit slower if it’ll mean extra money in our pockets. If you cannot find someone who charges per project make sure that you are vigilant in watching the clock and their work.

Sometimes kitchen sinks can be clogged up due to a slow accumulation of solidified grease. One quick fix for this is to try pouring very hot grease down the sink, which will liquefy the grease clogging the drain and carry it down. Water won’t work, because grease will not dissolve in water.

Plumbers In My Local Area

The key to finding a great plumber for new construction is to look at their prior jobs. Good plumbers take pride in the work they do, so they will have photos and references from previous jobs. If the plumber you are considering hiring does not have references or photos of previous jobs, then stay away and find another.

If you are thinking about becoming a plumber yourself, then you should first try to start out as an apprentice. If you can find a good mentor then you will learn a great deal more from watching and assisting him than you possibly could learn by working on projects alone.

Never try to undertake a project that you are unsure of. Additionally, never call on a friend to help you with something, if they are not a professoinal. There have been hundreds of good friendships ruined by a guy claiming to know exactly what he is doing, when the truth is he is clueless.

If you have an ice maker or other plumbing going to your refrigerator, every six months or so pull the refrigerator away from the wall and inspect this plumbing. There should be no condensation or corrosion on these plumbing lines, if there is, contact a plumber and have them look at it.

Residential Plumbing Repair

Be sure to have a running toilet fixed as soon as you can. Having a running toilet uses more water, which raises your water bill. To fix it yourself, you just have to find out what the problem is and buy the supplies you need. If you can’t fix it yourself, call a plumber.

Sometimes in the case of minor and or major emergencies we all have to become Mr. Fix it ourselves. If you’ve got blockage in your drains the first step is to try a commercial de-clogger like Drano. Simply pour it down the drain, wait ten minutes, and presto, your drain should be clear.

It is a general rule of thumb that you should replace a water faucet every seven years, even if you do not see anything wrong with it. Some faucet problems are not visible to the naked eye, which is why it is so important for them to replaced every so often.

If you are going to update the plumbing in your house, one thing to consider is installing a new tank-less water heater. They are much smaller than traditional tank heaters, which is a space-saver. Tank-less water heaters are available in gas or electric, depending on what your house needs.

Types Of Plumbing Jobs

By knowing your plumbing and how it works, as was stated before, can save you a lot of time and money. There’s nothing worse than a plumbing accident to mess up your day. So, using the advice from this article, you can be sure to save yourself a big headache!

How To Choose The Most Reliable Plumber

Toilet Plumbing Problems (power tools grinding) - Right guys, this the jobthat we're on at the moment. Mark's just chopping aload of wood out the back, and look, just abject,complete hell in here at the moment, but it'sone of those things, loads of stuff to do in here, it's just never-ending. But we are filming in thislittle alcove in here today, because we've got thesoil stack just down here, and that is gonna be running up there. We've got a toilet just here, we've got a toilet just here as well, so we're gonna be 45ing just through here, but also in this bit hereit's gonna be a utility room, so I've got to put on a littlebit of a half inch there, ready to go up. But then on this side of the job, we've gotta put awall-hung boiler up there, underfloor heat manifold, so obviously I've got my littleinch and a half down there for the high pressure relief for our pressurised system in here, and the same goes forhow I'm gonna link up, we've got a big unbeddedcylinder going in here as well, and that's also gonna be going in there. The high pressure relief willbe going in there for that, so there's lots and lots for us to do. But today's little video, what we're gonna be lookingat today, nice an simple, nice and easy, is justgetting our four-inch stack up here, 45 through, we'vegot a branch like that for the bogs up there, and then our littlebreather pipe out the top, which to be honest I'm notgonna show you how to do, it's just the same as everything else. But really it just give you an idea of why put bosses in, how we instal them, and also just how easy this job is. So if you've got this to do, then you think well, I'm not 100% happy about tackling thisone, we'll show you how. Or at least I'll be ableto give you a little bit of a tip, a bit of advice on how to do it. So yeah, importantly,there's obviously a lot to do at this job today, but like I said, we'vegot some brackets here, so I'll give you a quickheads-up how we can just get all this in, so Ihope you enjoy the video, remember guys, what you gotta do, is hold tight throughout the night. Just gonna finish this cup of tea and get my tripod over here as well. Ha hey! - [Announcer] Plumberparts. Co. Uk, home of Find Your Plumber. - So this is pretty muchwhere we're working, we've got our soil stack coming up here, it's gonna 45 up there, but for the first few metres I've got at least a nicebit of straight pipe. So the first thing I'm gonnado is measure out my clips. The way I do that is justpop my little spirit level on here like so, and thenI know that I've got a straight level all the way up, and then choose the heightswhere I want my clips to be. Watch this, easy-peasy right now. So I'm literally just poppingthis down the centre here, I put my line up there, getmy bubble nice and centred, so I just nick that. And now I know I can putthis right flat on the wall, just pop it in like so. Then just work my wayall the way up the wall. As you can see, we've got our nick there, got another line here,there's our stack down there. So basically I'm gonna put abracket somewhere about here, probably, and then I'm gonna measureup, just got a mark up here, I'm gonna put my otherbracket just about there. Nice and easy. Obviously make sure thatwhen your guys first fix, they first fix the rightwidth out of your bracket, which they have done here. So all I need to do is justget these little babies marked up and popped in. Now guess what, because I'vemeasured and done my brackets properly, my pipe willalso be level naturally, because it's gonna gonicely into those brackets. I'm gonna bang them on right now. Right so this is the firstlittle stumbling block we've got. So first we've got to get up here, and there's a line that I'vegot from the centre of that all the way down to here, next to our line ofwhere we're keeping our, we're tucking this into the corner nicely. So, we've got two 45s here. Usually, in a perfectworld, we'd have been able to keep this over just like this, so we could pop them two 45sinside each other like that and not have to do anything. But because this is slightly further away, if we marry up and holdthat 45 just there, you can see we've got a littlebit of a gap, haven't we? So what I've got to do, is get my tape, it's quite a difficult one holding this, and measure from mylittle finger just here, to my thumb here pretty much. Obviously I'll do that in aminute with the camera down, then I can cut the socket ofa full length of four inch, and stuff that on there, and then once we've gotthat bit made up right, we can put a little stub onhere ready for our branch, we can actually sit thatright up here like so, ready to go in. And then we can do our big measurement of one long bit of pipeall the way down from there all the way down to the bottom. So, I'm gonna measure that now, and then get this bit in. Bah! So I'm measuring 5 1/2 inches on here, I'm just gonna do this withmy little moulding saw. (saw buzzes) Little bit of a de-burr. Okay now this is a point where some of you seasoned plumbers might be like look, why are you using a file, Jimmy boy? Because, basically, a lotof people aren't gonna have 100 quid's worth of de-burringtool in their toolbox, are they, because they can't be bothered to spend the money on it. So the idea is we chamferthis bit off here, and then in a second ortwo it'll go into the actual main fitting much easier. We're all chamfered off. Oh! Don't worry, I'm just chamfering. A little tip for y'all ifyou haven't done this before, bit of Fairy Liquid for this, or you can get some silicone grease will do just as good a job. Then you don't have to worry so. Get on you! Cor, that is tight today, innit? Come on, sweetheart. So there's one of ourlittle beasts in, bang. There we go go, that's that bit done. So now you can see thatwe've got our little piece made up, effectively all we need to do now is measure a small bit of pipe, probably from abouthere to just about here, because I know that's where my T piece, my branch is gonna go in a minute. So I can just run thatdown to here like so, just like that across there, and then this piecewill effectively lift up to about here, where it willgo in and socket in nicely. So then this bend is nicely out the way for this cover downstairs. So this'll go up to here. So it sticks just there like that. There's our 45, there's our clip, here's me holding it all up. I now know exactly howlong to measure from here down to our bottom bit just down there. We know that's all gonna work out okay. So yeah, it's just doingit in the right way round. As you can see, the firstthing I did was measured all my levels and got my clips on. Let's just pop down here and I'll give you a quick heads-up on howto do a nice little bit of solvent weld. The solvent weld glue ischeap and leaks are expensive. I've opened this up beforewhen I was in a shower tray cubicle, and I got so high. Just basically watch out,use it in a ventilated area. Make sure that your pipe's nice and clean, look at that, lovely andclean, look at that, beautiful. Some guys will say youcan etch it a little bit, get an etch on there sothen the actual solvent will bite into it. I know this stuff, I mean atonne of this is expensive, but slather it on, okay? Don't skimp with this. As you can see, I don't know if you can see my tub down there, lean your tub over towards the floor and then pick it back up again and then you'll get plenty of this weld glue. Let me push this together,give it a little twist. Basically you're gonnaleave that for a set. We've got a little bit comingout of the middle there. This part here, I will put inonce we actually get up there. And then that'll basicallysit there like that and we've got our whole piece then for our loo and everything else. And that'll just sit up there. But that bit we'll do last. And now, we've got to basicallyget another one of these, glue that onto this bit here, and then get our longpiece going all the way back to the top fitted in as well. So we know exactlywhere we wanna end here, because I just wanna end roughly flush with the floor for that, and then, so we know thatwe're gonna have a socket on here, so you see that mark there? We've got a little markjust on there like that, and that is where we're gonna measure to. Watch my tape, just onthat mark just up there. Like so. Run my tape all the way down. And we're gonna have to put a little boss just in this piecehere, up here like that. So we're gonna be drilling ourselves a little hole just through here, okay, ready to go through there. So bosses, let's have aquick look at the boss. Some people call me theboss, my wife doesn't, which is good because we'vegot an equal relationship. So what we have to do is weneed to get our hole saw set. You pick a hole saw size thesame size as your boss hole. I've got a drill somewhere. We want it to be as big as possible, you see there that that'sexactly the right size for that. Literally, just get my drill,drill it in a little bit. So you notice on a strap boss like this, it's actually got a slight angle on it. There will be a top, so itmentions on this one here, it says top, obviouslytake that to be what it is. You also notice that anyinserts, be it any size, will have a little cut-outnotch on it like that, and that will also correspond to the top. So I know that these areobviously wrong colour, god that's annoying,it's one of those things. So usually what I'd say now is get your, get your solvent weld glue, and actually get that onyour insert fitting now, slop it on okay, like Isaid, this stuff's cheap, leaks are expensive. Any crap you've got wipeaway with your finger. Wait till it dries, and thenhave an insane amount of fun in peeling it off later on. I love doing that, it'smy favourite thing ever. Make sure that thisface is nice and clean. Also file off any burrsor anything like that that are in there. So everyone's got theirown way of doing this, I prefer to just get the solvent weld, and just get a fair bit of it on there. If you want, get a bit and putit on the back end of this, as well, as you can see we'vegot some notched-out holes. So there we go, we've got our boss up there, if you can see that in the distance, we've got a little zig-zag. What we've gotta do now is pop upstairs, going up to the noisy level now, where the chippies are and the builders, making loads of noise, ruining the plumber's life. Oh no, he's outta my way, he's in here. Here he is, look. Here's our pipe here, so our Tis gonna sit on there like so and then bog here, basin, bath. Or I think so, all thedrawings are on there. Look at him go, look at him go. And then, same this side really. Bog here, basin, but on this end, instead of having a bath,you've got a shower. So that's it really, this iswhat we're first fixing now, getting all that done. (power tool buzzes) So, anyway, right this now goes in here. Like so. And then we can serve all our boggy-wogs, and also get our stink out of the top. Glue like a good 'un, okay. Don't want any leaks,don't want any smell. Sling a bit round your hole as well. That's the way to do it. And then the chippieswill redo this little bit of studding. Just give that a little wiggle there. And there we go, we're in. That bit's ready. And then, I think, will be the end of our little video about soil pipes of now, until we maybe return tothis job and film some more. (upbeat music).

DDS-CAD Plumbing: Underfloor Heating Surfaces and Calculation EN1264

- Hi guys, welcome to thisplumberparts. Co. Uk video, today we're looking atthe exciting installation of a shower tray. So watch the video. Remember to subscribe,remember to follow us on Facebook and Twitter, andalso remember to hold tight. See you soon. - [Announcer] Plumerparts. Co. Uk, Home of Find Your Plumber. - Right then guys so, oh, have I got anything in my hair? Don't worry, sorry about that. I'm gonna look like anidiot in this video. Anyway right, so what we'vegot is our shower tray is just going up here somewhere. And I'm pretty sure Ihave preliminary measured out already, and as islife, the shower tray weights outlet is 100%gone over the top of joist. It's probably goingover where some of those pipes are already, soit's one of those things. So without going into too much detail, I'm just gonna do this job and you guys can just follow us in the background. We're gonna get to a stage route. We're not gonna go into this box here that we fitted a few days ago. We're not gonna go into that. We just need to get ourengine half-pipe down into this area here, okay? We can't put a box in right up there because we cannot physically drill through those two joists, becausethey're so close together. We can't get a drill inthat way or that way. It's just bloody nightmare. So what we're gonna dois we're gonna run along our weights pipe, our inchand a half across down here, and then we're gonna drop it down so it's inside this cupboard. So eventually, in this area here, this is all gonna be cupboarded in, it's gonna have an unvented cylinder in here,which we're gonna fit as well. I'm sure you'll be alongfor the ride on that one. So yeah, that is what we're gonna do. You're just gonna watch, sitthere with your cup of tea, in the bliss of your bed and watch us struggle away on a Saturday morning, Saturday bloody weekend warrior, and get this done. Enjoy. So you guys, this area herehas been precisely laid out for this shower. Basically the guys who've come in here and they've boxed this bit in. So effectively, all wegot to do is we've got to lay the shower drain down in here now, and we're gonna draw a circlewith the shower tray hole where the trap goes out, and guess what? That means that's wherethe bloody shower tray outlet is gonna be, isn't it? So we got to get the shower in now, which Mark, who's off-shore at the moment, has very kindly bought Ithink the world's heaviest shower tray, but it doesn'tmatter because I'm doing the tubes this morning, so you know. So I'm gonna get it now. Where is the bloody thing? So we're gonna cut up our big stuff open. Now this is one of them moments in life you wish you brought someof those window suckers, 'cause whatever happens,you might cut yourself on this stuff, so be careful. Don't do what I'm doingand do this without gloves. How exactly did they do this Mark? - [Mark] Flatten 'em. - Okay, put it down a little bit. Standard shower trap. It'll usually come with a little tool, because once you got your part work and everything underneath,the work you're gonna do is gonna be from above. So the little tool iseffectively used to cram into one of these little slots here. You can imagine my handis the shower tray, it'll scoop down into that like that, then underneath you'vegot your rubber seal, just under here, that will be going up the underside of my hand, so therefore the underside of the shower tray, and then all that gets pulledup, together like that, to make a water-tight seal underneath. Take the decorative coveroff, the facial cover. The bit you'll put inonce this is all tiled, once these have got windows and doors, and everything else is done. So we've got our hole here. Now this is exactly whereour shower tray is gonna be, we've got a lovely little, perfect little gap just around here. So we now can draw out my hole, exactly in the place where I want it. So now we can lift up the shower tray. I'm just gonna pop itup there, outta the way out the corner, then we canlay our actual trap down, get our template ready for the trap. You can cut a hole out here for the trap, then cut a notch out,like this, to take this in a little bit, becausethis knuckle can sort of tackle the other side of the floor, and if this has been pushed out of light in anyway whatsoever, later on in the job and we come to tighten up, you won't get a water-tight seal, andyou'll have the amp. Alright, so do things like that to make it easier for you now. ♫ Oh a frown with golden brown (Graham hums) Make sure you store yourbeloved shower tray, and you're gonna put itsomewhere where it doesn't crack you around the head later on. Typically, it's a touch bit too small. Such is life, give us the old grunt work, where we gotta be. Well ain't that just typical. What we're gonna do,I'm gonna set up this, that does that, okay? So we go down, we look over the top, and we go, "Right, I'mgonna cut this bit. " That's where we're gonna run. Don't leave yourself anywhere where this can get sort of inhibitedor anything like that. Or bugger about it. At the same time, asyou can see down here, we've got joist. Now this is where coordinationbetween the trades on a job like this or any extension or any kind of new build sort of stuff. When the architects andstuff design these bases or build a control. Say you've got to havejoist in certain positions, there is times where this happens. I mean it actually happens more often than it doesn't, if you know what I mean. It's quite a common problem. So what we have to do is we coordinate with chippies or builders,and say, "Look guys, "I've got to take this joist out. "They don't want the showerto be another way around. "If we put the wasteironing on the corner, "I might not get the job that I need "to get over to the stack. " So there's a lot of thingsthat you have to think about when you're doing this sort of thing. What we'll do is I'll nowgo ahead, put my weights in, and then on Monday, whenthe chippies have got off their asses, becauseI never work weekends, they will come in andbasically sort this out. They'll have to strengthen it. Then what'll happen is we'llget building control around, they'll have a look at itand sign it off, basically. So that's value. So I want you to feelwhat we were thinking, so when you get to pullthis out, you've got to go down the ole drill. Alright, let's just get downthere and split this out. We are just gonna notch out a little bit, this little rung that we'vekind of knotted out here. Before we do anything with a shower tray, before we lock that downor anything like that, I want to make sure that this can sit in there freely and move about. So it's got like a goodfive to 10 mil around it. Any problems with the showertray later in the job, we're making it now easierfor us in the future. So you can't deny, Imean a lot of plumbing is just prep work, really. So look at that lovely bitof wood butchery there. But the main thing is nowis we can sit this in here, and it's completely flush with the bottom of the floor, so in aminute when we've got our shower tray here,and look at what movement has got as well. It's not tied up or anything like that. That means we can do allour work now from above without having to worry. We can even tighten up, you know the bit of the job that peoplehate, when you tighten up the shower trap? You know, you're not nextto it, anything like that. You can even do that now from above without having to worry too much. So a couple of tips forthis bit, number one: Every shower tray that'sever made, to be honest, this one here. Okay Mark is due, he boughta good quality one here. A lot of the time you get under here, this is just like rippled up and horrible, and yeah, difficult to seal up. Now I know that we obviouslygot our rubber seal. This is gonna go onunderneath just like this, and that is where our mainseal is gonna come from. To be honest, look at this. I'm so happy with it. Sometimes what I do is I run a little bit of gunk around here just to be sure. I felt good here anyway. I always do, it's justone of those things. Now every brand new showertray that's ever been made, they always have this littleprotective film on it. Don't pull off the whole film, okay? Leave the film overit, as long as you can, but for the bit aroundwhere we're gonna be doing our seal now, you'regonna wanna pull that film away just there. What I mean by that is just rip here. Ready for us. Just gonna put a littlebit of CT1 on here. Just leave it like that. What they would say is begood to the next person who's coming along, and ifyou got any CT1 spittering out the side or anythinglike that, just make sure you smooth that off now. Otherwise someone might comealong again to do some work here and they won't be ableto take the whole trap off, and that wouldn't be very nice, would it? Alright, so we pop our trap on here, making sure that allour other bits and bobs are outta the way. Put it in that direction. Here's the little toolthat I was talking about. Usually you just get thisin here and get this on. Well that is not gonna leak. We are literally nowjust a matter of getting yourself a sheet, clean off as much dust and snot like that from underneath. Brush as well. Brush up wherever you put the shower. Try to make sure thisis as clean as possible. This is totally fat, this shower tray, weighs an absolute tonne. If you just laid it on the floor and tried to kick the bloody thing,it wouldn't move anywhere. So what we're gonnado, we're gonna use our clear CT1 to actually gluethis down, stick it down. We'll also run a beakeraround the outside as well. After that, once that isset, literally the floor will come up with the shower tray. That stuff, it grabs on anything. So I'm just gonna quicklyclear this part up, give us a wipe down,then we're just gonna. We're gonna do it in blobs, I think blobs don't really work too well. You do these little blob points here. I just want a ring aroundthere, ring around there, ring around there, allthose little rings there and just try and run a fewup these lines here as well. It will not move anywhere, this stuff. Obviously I've cut myself a larger hole so we're not doing it as well. Important thing is here that you clean down the bottom of the shower tray. We know that there's not gonna be any dust or anything like that. Can stop this adhesive doing it's job. Even though this stuff isjust different level, really. What happens now is you basicallymove this round in a very little to attempt to get anyCT onto yourself as well. Never easy this bit, I'm afraid. And literally, that should just lay the exact way I wantit, without any problems whatsoever, look at that. We can just pop this in here now. Right, what I do now, just peel up. Remember guys, just the edges. Right then, so that'sthe shower tray down. What we need to do now is go downstairs, plant our pipe root an inch and a half, then actually get ourinch and a half installed. Right then guys, so we'vegot our 45 bit on here, so we know we can get a nice straight run, so I'm just gonna pop thisbit on now underneath. Get that as nice and tight as possible. Now obviously the problem we've got here is that we've got pretty three of joist to go through until we'reinside our cupboard area, where we can drop ourpipe down safely inside that cupboard, out of sight. Obviously you want to tryto put one bit of pipe in. Sometimes that's just notgonna happen, alright. We're gonna have quitea high hole height here, and without ripping the floor up, this all will be glued down andscrewed down already. The only way we're gonna be able to get this through at themoment is to literally, it's annoying, reallyannoying, is to basically grab a couple of couplingsand just basically glue up a few bits. So what I firstly recommendis when you're measuring your holes, just measure everything from your bottom joist, because you know these are all level, and makesure that every joist you go in on, just giveyourself another two mil. Drop yourself another twomil down, or if you want to do a little bit more, another five mil, it's totally up to you. Just make sure you geta nice, adequate draw. Going away. You're doing quite along run, then obviously you don't want to do toomany mils every joist, otherwise you're gonna endup popping out the ceiling. This is quite short aroundhere, so I can probably get away with giving myselfpretty much five mil drop on every one of these joisthere, and that work fine. Similarly, if this wasrunning the other way, what I'd do is I'd take my waste back to the side joist, sowe were going long here, and I'd clip it all theway along the joist, okay? And then when you put your clips in, you measure your clips down five mil every time to make sure youget an adequate drop on that. So I'm going to get these measured up now, I'm gonna get 'em drilled,and then we're gonna go through the rigamarole ofgetting this pipe put in. Well what I'm doing,I'm leaving this pipe, coming out of the wall,quite far off the wall because this one needs to be boarded out in here anyway, so this will leave the lads a little bitof room, so I can get in there with there. Under there where there'stroughs or whatever. Well there we go, all in. I'm really, really happy with the result. I mean it wasn't easygetting through those bits, and I hope you'llunderstand why we've done certain parts of this job. I just want to get acrossto people that everything is completely differentwhen it comes to these jobs. There's no right or wrongway of doing things. Sometimes it's just the onlyway, if you know what I mean. Right then guys, so there you go. Shower tray's laid down,we've got the weights downstairs all in. We're now ready for the other trays to come in and do theirstuff and it's the blissful world of a plumber knowingthat everything's done and that you don't have to worry anymore for another month. Anyway I hope you enjoyed the video, guys. Remember to pop over toour Facebook and Twitter, follow us there. There's links comingup now to buy T-shirts. The same T-shirt as whatI'm wearing right now. And all sorts of linksto some other videos. Anyway, I hope you have a great time, and I'll see you soon guys. Hold tight!. Plumbing And Drainage Your home's and Industry's plumbing systemhas variety of valves found at various points along the water pipes that allow you to turnoff the water during emergencies, or when you need to makes repairs or upgrades. Shutting off the water is often the firststep of many plumbing projects. Locating and turning off the appropriate watershut off valve is therefore, very important. In this video we will go to learn DifferentType of water Valves. If you like our video, so please subscribeOur Channel Learning Engineering. Ball Valve. A ball valve is normally a rather large metalvalve usually featuring a lever handle. It is designed for quick turn-off, since thevalve opens and closes full with a short 1/4 turn of the lever handle. This is the type of valve often seen at themain water shut-off for the home & industry. Gate Valve. A gate valve describes the mechanism by whichthe valve is opened and closed. To turn a gate valve on or off, a circularhandle is turned to rise or lowers a metal gate inside the valve body. When the valve is off the gate blocks theflow of water. Globe Valve. From the outside, a globe valve resemblesa ball valve, with a slightly bulbous metal body. However, unlike a ball valve, a globe valveis designed to allow variable adjustment of water flow. Inside the valve, there is a baffle with awater flow port running through it The handle operates a plunger with some sort of washeror seal on the bottom; as the handle closes the valve, the plunger moves down againstthe water-flow port and partially closes it off. Angled Fixture Shut-Off Valves. Individual fixtures all should have some formin individual shut-off valves that control water to only those fixtures. This allows water to be shut off for smallrepairs or replacements to the fixture itself without interrupting water flow to other areas. These fixture shut-off valves can take manyappearances, but one that is very common is small silver-colored valve with an oval handlewith ribbed edges for gripping. Straight Fixture Shut-off Valves. A close relative of the angled fixture shut-offis a straight shut-off which operates exactly the same way, but is intended for use wherethe water flow can run straight to the fixture. It's very often used where a water pipe comesup out of the floor rather than out from the wall. Stop-and-Waste Valve. A stop and waste valve is a key irrigationfitting to help keep sprinkler lines free from freezing in the winter. The stop and waste valve is turned on andoff with a meter key and when it is in the off position it will automatically drain anywater in the line. Check Valves. The water moving through your plumbing shouldonly travel one way: from the supply lines and out through a fixture, or from a drainto the sewer main. To assure a one-way flow in the event of a"cross-connection", a check valve is necessary. Butterfly Valves. Butterfly valves are not particularly beautiful(it's pretty disappointing, we know). In fact, they look a lot like any other valve. The butterfly moniker refers instead to themechanism inside, essentially a disc that rotates by handle turns; this of course meansthat flow is reduced through the valve. Diaphragm Valve. A diaphragm valve is similar to a gate valvein that there is a wheel or knob that moves an element in the valve fitting, which limitsthe flow of water. In a diaphragm valve, the element is a diaphragmthat settles down over a saddle, thus stopping water flow. Pressure Balanced Valve. Pressure balanced valves are used to maintaina constant temperature of water in domestic showers or bathtubs. A diaphragm within the valve allows the operatorto set mixing of hot and cold water; however in the event of a pressure drop of cold water(for instance, if a toilet nearby is flushed), the diaphragm will shift to limit an excessiveflow of hot water. Many jurisdictions require pressure balancedvalves in domestic bathrooms and showers to prevent accidental scalding. Zone Valve. Zone valves are used in hydronic heating andcooling systems to control the flow of water or steam. For instance, they may be provided in differentrooms, different floors, or different dwelling units so that each space can have local controlover the heating or cooling. In most applications, zone valves are electricallycontrolled and are connected to a thermostat so that automatic control is achieved. Locking Valve. Almost any type of valve can be locked toavoid accidental or intentional opening or closing. However, valves with lever-type handles allowfor more secure locking control. Locking valves provide aligning holes thata lock can be passed through to stop rotation of the handle. There are also locks designed to be attachedto non-locking valves to prevent adjustment. Solenoid Valve. Solenoid valves are electrically controlledvalves that can offer precise on/off control via an automation system. Solenoid valves are used in buildings wherean automation system controls the plumbing or HVAC system. Another common use is in irrigation systemswhere a computer controls the watering times or the amount of water to be applied. Thanks for watching this video. You have any question about this video, soplease write the comment box. More update please subscribes our channelLearning Engineering.

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